Kuna Yala: Home of Molas, Chicha, and Budweiser

Let me explain...
So last week our group traveled to Kuna Yala in the San Blas islands. Incredible. After two days of foot, chiva, bus, van, and boat travel, we reached Needle Island in Kuna Yala that we would spend the next few days on. We are talkin´ an island out of the google search images of serene islands. After arriving we each got our own tent (or hammock) and camped all over the island. Next we went the main island, Carti Sugdub, and met the Kuna Congreso. They welcomed us to their home and explained that their independence celebration would last for the next two days. What a great two days.

We spent most of our time swimming, playing frisbee and soccer on the beach, touring the mangroves, snorkeling, reading, and of course, having biology and history discussions in the sand. We also spent a lot of time interacting with the Kuna and bargaining for molas, the traditional sewn cloths that the women make. (Google image search them until I put up pictures.) The locals made all of our food, mostly fresh fish, rice, and fruit, and it was delicious. We had two days of these activities and then on the 25th we headed out to Carti around 9 am to celebrate.

What a celebration! For two days the Kuna re-enact their revolution against the Panamanian government throughout the town, and the second day (the 25th) things get crazy. The drama goes from 9 until 12, and then they head to one ceremonial hut-building with women and men separated. The older men come through with bowls of chicha (fermented coffee, corn, and sugar) and the women pass out cigarettes and hard candy. After lots of dancing and cheers-ing, they drink the bowl of chicha in one drink, then light up. Very entertaining. This continues for a few hours until all the chicha is gone, and then comes the rum shots. Needless to say, everyone who speaks Kuna breaks out their Spanish, and those who speak both break out their English. I was proposed to in all three languages.

While I greatly enjoyed drinking Chicha, I headed out of the ceremonial hut after about an hour to avoid the rum (things got a little crazy) and savored $1 budweiser at the docks with some other students. What a wonderful independence day. After we left the island we had biology class on the beach (best bio class ever) and sat around singing songs. Needless to say, I will forever remember Kuna independence on February 25th and forever long for more chicha.

That night a horrible storm rained on our parade and we all left the island very, very wet in the morning. Totally worth it. Kuna Yala was one of the most beautiful places I´ve ever been and the people there were wonderful. I only hope we don´t go blind trying to recreate chicha back in the states...